Enchantment Learning & Living Blog

Welcome to Enchantment Learning & Living, the inspirational space where I write about the simple pleasures, radical self-care, and everyday magic that make life delicious.

On a Road Trip through New Mexico

June 10, 2014

Your car is newly washed, polished, and shined. Your tank is full. You have your stash of tunes and another of snacks. Your bags are packed. You have the perfect company: your sister.

Now there is nothing but the open road before you, hours of cruising and giggling and singing along too loudly and out of key to country music. You only have one stop--Ruidoso--but you have summer in your soul and miles of open space spread out before you, making it the perfect little road trip.

The desert has graced you with a cool morning and the promise of a sunny day. Let no one tell you your desert is nothing but dust and an almost colorless brown blanketing the earth. As you cruise you see the mountains glow their purple glow in the distance; the dry sierra brush surrounded by little wildflowers of yellow, pink, and white; and scattered short trees--forest and silvery greens--fanning out on either side of the road, reminders of how much you love your desert. Further still, you know you will see the plateaus and hills wearing their red and brown and yellow stripes, their bellies full of clay and history. The sky itself kisses the hood of your car with its turquoise lips.

Deeper still you go, stopping only to fill up the tank and empty your bladders, climbing higher into cooler temperatures and greener lands. After time away, it is good once again to feel the road under your wheels, the expanse of this glorious desert in your heart.

Enchantment Learning & Living is an inspirational blog celebrating life’s simple pleasures, everyday mysticism, and delectable recipes that are guaranteed to stir the kitchen witch in you. If you enjoyed what you just read and believe that true magic is in the everyday, subscribe to my newsletter below for regular doses of enchantment. Want even more inspiration? Follow me on Instagram, Facebook, Pinterest, and Twitter. Here’s to a magical life!

Mojito Body Scrub

June 9, 2014

Nothing says summer like a nice, tall mojito--the mint and citrus cool you down after a day in the sun like nothing else. Just the smell of mint and citrus evokes fantasies of sipping this perfect drink poolside while sunning myself! But all the sunbathing leaves us with another important part of summer: self-care, especially for the skin. I concocted this scrub in honor of both these things (self-care and mojitos), so my skin feels tingly fresh and ready for a day at the beach--or more realistically, my patio. Use this with my mojito body butter and you've got a recipe for perfect skin all summer long!

Ingredients:

2 cups Epsom or sea salts or sugar (I used whatever I have on hand)

Mojito body scrub freshly packaged in a green mason jar--makes a great gift!

1 cup olive oil

20+ drops peppermint essential oil

20+ drops lemon essential oil

Mix ingredients in a bowl and transfer to a mason jar or other airtight container. You can add more of the essential oils to get a more pungent smell. Store in a cool, dry place for up to a month. To use, scrub liberally over body after soaping down. Avoid face. Rinse.

Enchantment Learning & Living is an inspirational collection of musings touching on life’s simple pleasures, everyday enchantments, and delectable recipes that will guarantee to stir the kitchen witch in you. If you enjoyed what you just read and believe that true magic is in the everyday, subscribe here.

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Mojito Body Butter

June 8, 2014

Recently, I ran out of my stash of homemade body butter and made do for a few weeks with store-bought lotion--what a waste! My skin was dryer than dry and lost that luscious softness that can only be achieved with my own body butters. Even when I switched to plain old coconut oil in favor of the lotion, my skin felt greasy more than hydrated. So it was with great relief when I finished school that I could set aside an afternoon for making this moisturizer. Then, feeling the summer spirit, I decided to whip up a stash of mojito body butter, which would pair well with my mojito body scrub. I adapted my recipe from the book Organic Body Care Recipes--an amazing trove of great DIY self-care treats. After a week back using my butter, my skin feels minty fresh and supple!

While making your own body butter might seem complicated or like it takes a lot of steps, it's really pretty easy. The trick is to go slow; the hardest part (really not that hard), is waiting for the beeswax to melt. I like to melt it separately from my other ingredients because it takes the longest to melt. Once melted, you can slowly add other ingredients. Don't be alarmed if the beeswax seems to harden with the introduction of oils--just add the oils a little at a time, and it will slowly melt down again.

Special Tools:

Clean tin can

Old saucepan

Ingredients from left to right: essential oils, coconut oil, olive oil, distilled water, and beeswax.

Blender

Spatula

Ingredients:

3/4 cup olive oil

1/3 cup coconut oil

4 tablespoons beeswax, roughly chopped into small pieces

1 cup distilled water

30 drops peppermint oil

30 drops lemon oil

Tin can in sauce pan with some beeswax in it.  I prefer to use an old saucepan that I don't cook with anymore--I use it strictly for beauty treats. — Tin can in sauce pan with some beeswax in it. I prefer to use an old saucepan that I don't cook with anymore--I use it strictly for beauty treats.

1. Place the saucepan on low heat and fill halfway with water. Then place the clean tin can in the center of the saucepan. Put the beeswax in the tin can and let melt slowly. When beeswax is melted, remove from heat and allow to cool to room temperature (but not to solidify) about 5-10 minutes.

2. While beeswax is cooling, mix together olive oil and coconut oil in a small bowl. Heat for two minutes in microwave and let cool about 5 minutes.

3. Heat the distilled water (still in a microwave safe measuring cup) for two minutes in the microwave and let cool about five minutes.

Pouring the last of the melted beeswax into the blender while it mixes ingredients on medium speed.

4. Blend your ingredients in a blender. First add half of the oil mixture and begin to mix it on medium. Once the oils begin to thicken, add half the water, then half the beeswax. Blend for another 10-15 seconds or until first half of your ingredient are blended and being to thicken. Using a spatula, scrape down the sides of the blender and then begin blending on medium again. Add remaining ingredients (oils, water, beeswax) one at a time until fully incorporated together. Scrape down the sides one last time and blend for another 10-15 seconds. The mixture should be thick.

5. Turn off blender and add essential oils, stirring them in manually with your spatula, then blend completely on medium for another 10 seconds.

Freshly jarred homemade body butter, cooling.

6. Pour body butter into containers (I use mason jars) and let cool for at least half an hour before capping. If you find your water separating from your oils, don't worry, that's normal. It just means that the water temp and the oil temp weren't the same when you blended them. I've noticed the more I make this recipe (or variations of it!), the less that happens, so just keep practicing. Store in a cool, dry place for up to one month or in the fridge for six months--that is the advice the book I adapted the recipe from gave. Personally, I have stored this body butter in my bathroom sink for a couple months and it has been fine sans fridge.

7. To use, apply after bathing or showering. Use only a little at a time--a little goes a long way!

On Restocking Your Refrigerator

June 7, 2014

At last! You finally get the chance to restock your fridge. The week was a study in making some hastily bought lettuce, eggs, beets, last until you could go grocery shopping properly. Your fridge has stood forlornly in the corner of your kitchen, almost empty except for a stray bread end and your meager staples. This simply will not do.

It is sweet relief to enter the store, to fill your cart with fresh basil and wine and aged Gouda cheese--the essentials. Your heart is light as you pile on the berries that have suddenly come in-season while you were away, yes they will fill your shelves nicely. And you cannot live without radishes. Or organic lemons. Or, frankly, dates. So in your cart they go.

Then there is the question of dinner for the next few days. You already know your weekend breakfasts will be omelet filled (you select heirloom tomatoes, mushrooms, sweet onions). The heat makes you crave nothing but crisp salads, light fish, fresh fruit. You feel a menu forming in your head: salt and pepper calamari with beet and radish salad. Then pesto pizza with those heirloom tomatoes the next night. You even eye the apricots--not quite ripe yet, and wonder if you can turn them into a 5-minute refrigerator jam. Your mind cannot stop forming recipes, meals, kitchen experiments.

At home again, you unload your bounty into your now happy refrigerator, marveling at its shelves, almost bursting with whole foods. You must celebrate. You take the freshly-made sparkling water and mix it with grapefruit juice and basil simple syrup (newly made with the basil only just purchased) for a festive mocktail; happy to once again have an arsenal of goodies at your disposal, ready for anything from a simple meal to an impromptu get-together with family. You try to enjoy your drink on the patio, but it doesn't last. You find yourself in front of the fridge, enjoying your modern day cornucopia, sipping your drink. It is good to be home.

On Saying Goodbye Old Lives in New Cities

June 6, 2014

It started in Versailles. There you were looking at centuries old rooms coated in luxury, stained by the violence of excess. You found an older version of yourself--the one who once would have eaten up every little decorative touch in the royal bedrooms and every morsel about Marie Antoinette--tucked into a corner by the window, staring out at the Hall of Mirrors. There was your reflection of someone long gone, that you who used to make your living memorizing these facts of another age, another culture, a ghost not completely sure she had passed on to another realm.

You saw her again roaming the ground of this palace, lost in the excess. You watched as she searched for Marie Antoinette's cottage, the place the queen played peasant, desperate for a glimpse of something real after the painful glitter of the palace. Yet she was also painfully eager to put her stamp on the place as if to legitimize her past studies after viewing what she'd only read about in books. But you reign her in. You are weary of this empty place, this soulless husk of a time long gone. You let this old remnant go over escargot in the Rue Cler, happy once again to be who you are, where you are.

Yet this old life crosses your path again, this time in London as if a walk through Covent Garden has triggered her appearance. (You begin to wonder if you will ever be fully rid of her.) Here, too, she is disoriented, only half-aware that her time has passed. Like the old pleasure grounds of Covent Garden taken over by luxury shops and tourist traps, she no longer exists except in name. You mourn this loss, feeling history erode beneath your feet and yet are grateful for the firm grounding of the here and now--family, present enjoyment of a good fish and chips dinner, things you would have forsaken in the past to prove your knowledge, your mastery of something outside yourself.

She appears only once more, this past life, the path you could have taken had you chosen to remain a scholar-nun, wed only to your books, your research, your grip on dead things long past. You find her in Bath; here she is only a wisp of smoke, already faded under your appreciation of the path you now walk. She whispers to you on the Circus, the circle lined with Georgian Buildings, the hub of gossip, home to many an Austen novel (a fact, among others, she is proud to remember), yet her voice is only a rustle of leaves. Here too, the city is overtaken with over-priced shops and sad imitations of a life that once was. Here too, you say goodbye to the dust and memories that used to occupy your life so completely. Here too, you turn from her.

You have left the Circus, your old self disappearing like a puff of smoke, that path you could have taken paved over with yellow bricks such as those that Bath was built with. You watch it happen from the safety of your new path, carved from the desert stone, cured by the desert sun, nourished by everyday life. This is your path. As if to sweep away the last of your old life as you return home, you receive a message from your sister, a bright light clearing through the rubbish of the past: she is having a baby girl. You will be tia, you will be autie, to a little niece. All at once, you see what is before you now: new life, warm as the desert heat you are missing, real as your native soil beneath your feet. Family. The desert. The enchantment of daily life. This is your life.

On Returning Home After a Long Journey

June 5, 2014

You love adventuring, you really do. But after days of touring several different countries and seeing so many sights, what you really want is a long bubble bath in your own tub, a glass of wine in hand, jazz playing softly in the background. You want to sit out on your patio and linger over your morning coffee. You want to sleep in your own bed again.

As you slide the key into the lock of your front door, you feel like Bilbo Baggins--there and back again--and ready to write about your adventures. But first, you want to feel your home around you once more. You breathe a sigh of relief as you close the door behind you and take in your familiar surroundings. Everything is just as you left it--the turquoise blanket you are knitting in a heap on your cranberry couch, your writing desk covered in books and painting supplies. The kitchen, spotless.

It is the garden you go to first; you want to see how your plants fared while you were away. Did the cabbage worms eat all your lettuces? Did the pea shoots get enough water? Is your cucumber plant surviving? Your plants appear none the worse for the wear, though you fuss over them all the same, trimming back dried leaves and watering them.

Then you fill your home with light, pulling back curtains and opening the windows for fresh air. There is life here again! You go to your bedroom and stare longingly at your big colorful bed, the covers of which you can't wait to snuggle under that night. It will be nice to dream in your own space again. Then your take in the kitchen, looking fairly forlorn without a full fridge or something cooking on the stove. It looks almost as if dust has gathered there after two weeks without use. You make plans to remedy that quickly--grocery shopping must happen; new recipes must be tried.

You unpack slowly, pulling out each simple treat you've gathered from your travels and taking time to decide where they belong in your home. The ribbons bought in London must go on the vanity table, the tea, in the pantry. Later, you will hang your paintings of Paris--done by a street artist, bought along the Seine--in your living room. And you will place your magnets on your fridge alongside the others, some from past travels, some bought in a fit of pure whimsy.

As you go through this ritual of returning home, you feel your things; your creature comforts begin to wake up, your house stirring as if from a long sleep. It is pure pleasure to be back. The only thing left to be done now is that long bath. You have journeyed far to restore yourself, and you find that restoration, at last, in rekindling your routine.

London in Review

June 4, 2014

London.

It's hard to describe this city. It is home to relics of important western history and literature nestled within the bustle of modern life--traffic whizzing by, people piling out of pubs come evening time, shops upon shops lining the streets. In many ways, London was the city that took us the longest to adjust to, whereas we thought it would be Paris, since it was the one place where we didn't know much of the language. But London was a strange mix of old ways--that stiff English reserve as chilly as the gray, damp weather and the Anglophil worship of their colonial and literary past--and cozy Hobbit-ness, with people that like a good pint and a chat, and good curry even more. Once we broke the surface of that off-putting reserve, we had a blast!

The first day we were there, we arrived too late for lunch, and so stopped at a nearby pub for a beer, whiskey, and nuts since that was all they had. After hours on the plane and in the airport, it was delicious! That night we also ate at the absolute best fish and chips at Rock & Sole, a restaurant near the Covent Garden dating back to 1871 and still using locally sourced fish. It also had a rich history, particularly in feeding the homeless during the WWII Blitz.

Windsor Castle.  The greenery in place now is where the mote used to be. — Windsor Castle. The greenery in place now is where the mote used to be.

The next day was devoted to a tour of the English countryside. We saw Windsor Castle, Stonehenge, the idyllic Village of Lacock (the set of many films like Cranford, Emma, and even Harry Potter), and Bath (the old social center and healing waters of the 18th and 19th centuries). While all these sights were wonderful in their own right, the most awe-inspiring was Stonehenge.

It was, however, pretty cool to see a medieval castle--once I got past the cringe-worthy celebration of English colonization, my sword and sorcery nerd came out! The Village of Lacock, too, carried a charm reminiscent of old England and a slower way of life. While so many of London's historical sites like Piccadilly Circus and Covent Garden have been taken over by high end shops, it was nice to see what an older version of England looked like in this village. Bath too, while home to many fancy modern shops, carried the echoes of Jane Austen and other writers that featured this gossip hub in their novels. The day was perfectly capped off by dinner at an amazing Indian restaurant, Tayyab, which all our cabbies assured us was the place to go. They were right!

Mouthwatering lamb smothered in spices at Tayyab.

The final day in London was spent touring the city. We saw Shakespeare's Globe Theater, the House of Parliament, the Tower, and Westminster Abbey, and even got to sneak in some time to visit the Sherlock Homes Museum on 221B Baker Street! I honestly can't believe how much we did that day because all those sights were followed up by a visit to Tate Modern and the Freud Museum, along with neighborhood hopping, ribbon shopping, and a trip to the original Twinings tea shop that has been in business since 1706. Safe to say, I got my tea-nerd on!

Enjoying a pint and a whiskey at Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese after a day of adventuring!

After all that excitement, we decided to stop off at Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese, a pub said to have been frequented by Charles Dickens, Mark Twain, and Samuel Johnson (the writer of the first English dictionary and whose house is just around the corner). It was just the fortification we needed to enjoy a spin on the London Eye, which gave us a breathtaking view of the city. Our last proper meal in London, then, was at Simpson's in the Strand, a traditional English restaurant most famous for its roast beef that they cut for you right at the table. It was a luxurious feast of roast beef, Yorkshire pudding (a type of popover), potatoes and cabbage. If it is one thing we learned on this trip, it is that the English like their meat and potatoes--and their beer!

Roast beef, house made horseradish, and Yorkshire pudding at Simpson's.

This iconic London telephone booth, complete with graffiti!

All in all, it was a fantastic trip! Perhaps the moments I enjoyed most were when we got to stroll around different neighborhoods and talk with the locals, both native to England and immigrants, about what London is to them. And like the hobbit that I truly am, I am inspired and awed by my travels, but am now happy to be home and sharing them with you all as I write this post over a pot of Twinings tea in my colorful New Mexican kitchen. Thanks for following!

Paris in Pictures

June 3, 2014

Having an Audrey Hepburn moment along the River Seine!

At the Louvre, with the Eiffel Tower in the distance.

If Barcelona is a loud, warm city overflowing with life, Paris is an elegant one dedicated to refined enjoyment like strolling along the River Seine. My first view of Paris was in a taxi cab from the airport--I was blown away by the bigness of the city, the modern buildings seemingly piled on top of one another and the relative quiet of the sidewalks (not the freeways!) on the Sunday evening when my family arrived. Perhaps one of the most enjoyable aspects of the city was seeing the Eiffel Tower everywhere we went--it felt much like the ever present Sandia Mountains in Albuquerque that orient you to your location in this big maze of streets and alleyways.

We learned that first night that most restaurants are closed on Sundays from the man we rented an Air B&B apartment from. Fortunately, we did find dinner in the form of a sidewalk bistro serving escargot and kir royal, a champagne and currant liquor drink popular in France (it's much like the Italian spritz or the American mimosa). It tasted amazing after a long day traveling in from Barcelona.

Escargot (snails) cooked in butter and parsley.

The Louvre with the Pyramid--a feature installed in 1989 and hated by the French because its modern style clashed so completely with the antiquated architecture of the Louvre.  I think now they tolerate it more than appreciate it. — The Louvre with the Pyramid--a feature installed in 1989 and hated by the French because its modern style clashed so completely with the antiquated architecture of the Louvre. I think now they tolerate it more than appreciate it.

The Mona Lisa.  It is encased in a glass security tomb that, in case of an emergency, will sink the priceless painting into a basement vault to keep it safe.  Our tour guide told us that no insurance company is willing to insure this paint… — The Mona Lisa. It is encased in a glass security tomb that, in case of an emergency, will sink the priceless painting into a basement vault to keep it safe. Our tour guide told us that no insurance company is willing to insure this painting--it is too great a risk as it is literally priceless.

The next day was pretty epic--we spent the morning at the Louvre and the afternoon strolling the River Seine and the Left Bank neighborhoods. I got the see the Mona Lisa which, while not Da Vince's best work, is surely his most famous. I don't know what awed me more: The Mona Lisa, a tiny priceless painting, or the giant crowd trying to get a look at it--and sneaking in selfies with the Mona Lisa! After the museum crowds, it felt great to feel the open air along the Seine and experience the parts of the city where real Parisians live. We even squeezed in some time to enjoy the Notre Dame Cathedral!

Me and my mom outside the bookstore.  We couldn't go in because it was packed with visitors! — Me and my mom outside the bookstore. We couldn't go in because it was packed with visitors!

The Louvre neighborhood was the first moment I actually felt myself in the Paris of the old movies I am addicted to. It was the Paris of old buildings with intricate designs, perfectly manicured gardens, and picturesque bridges connecting one part of the city to the other (including the famous "Love Lock" bridge, where lovers put a lock on the bridge to cement their love). We walked through street markets and visited the canonical Shakespeare and Company, a bookstore and lending library best known to expats for carrying banned books like D.H. Lawrence's Lady Chatterley's Lover and for being a hub where American writers like Hemingway and F. Scott Fitzgerald congregated. It was great to feel Paris beneath my feet!

Me outside Polidor after a fantastic meal!

Beef bourguignon at Polidor--I couldn't be in France and not try this dish!  What would Julia Child think? — Beef bourguignon at Polidor--I couldn't be in France and not try this dish! What would Julia Child think?

We finished off the night with more escargot and a fantastic dinner of beef bourguignon at Polidor, a restaurant best known for its now-famous clientele like James Joyce, Ernest Hemingway, Jack Kerouac, and Henry Miller. The restaurant was opened in 1845 and remains relatively unchanged: customers still sit at long tables community-style and the food is reminiscent of 19th century France.

A mere corner in the Hall of Mirrors.  During the 18th century, mirrors were very expensive to install, so I can only imagine what it cost to install a huge corridor like this one with such pricey material! — A mere corner in the Hall of Mirrors. During the 18th century, mirrors were very expensive to install, so I can only imagine what it cost to install a huge corridor like this one with such pricey material!

Day two was dedicated to Versailles, a palace at once opulent and empty. As breathtaking as it was to learn about the history of this grand palace--particularly that of Marie Antoinette and the French Revolution--it was at the same time shocking to see the excess of these royals founded on the taxation and impoverishment of the people. Walking through the hall of mirrors made it quite clear why the French Revolution happened. My family and I agreed that perhaps the one redeeming feature of this less than glamorous part of France's history is that now Versailles is a place for the people, where students and families can go and stroll the luxurious grounds. Still, it was eerie walking through the perfectly coiffed halls and gardens and seeing the dark underbelly of this seemingly majestic space.

Croissant sampler, from left to right: chocolate, plain, and almond.  My family and I had so much fun tasting them! — Croissant sampler, from left to right: chocolate, plain, and almond. My family and I had so much fun tasting them!

We regrouped from the Versailles experience that night--our last night in Paris--by a walk through the Rue Cler, a neighborhood famous for its quaint shops and good restaurants. And yes, there was more escargot, along with a traditional fondue plate for dinner. All in all, Paris was a majestic experience and yet left me feeling as if I have barely scratched the surface of this elegant city. My last taste of this city was my morning croissant--I fell in love with the almond ones. It was rich yet dainty, much like this Paris.

The Colorful Barcelona In Review

June 2, 2014

The door to the Air B&B apartment we stayed at--fantastic!

Barcelona is the city of all cities in my opinion--such a livable place and so full of history, culture, and art. My family and I stayed in the heart of the city, near Las Ramblas, a stretch of street full of great shops and sights, including my absolute favorite, La Boqueria, an amazing open market filled to the gills with seafood, fruits, veggies, and, of course, jamon! And let me tell you, we ate a lot of jamon, a ham the Spanish are famous the world over for. Yum!

Fruit display from vendors at La Boqueria.

Seafood at La Boqueria--I've never seen some of these types of fish before!

Other highlights of the trip include a whole day devoted to Gaudi. We were blown away by the light and magic of La Sagrada Familia, a church designed around Gaudi's love of nature. It truly felt like a sacred space of light and healing that transcended any notion of traditional religion. Then it was on to Park Guell, a space Gaudi designed to be house development but that, when that project failed, became a gorgeous city park dotted with Gaudi's whimsical architecture. We finished off our Gaudi-fest with a night-time tour of La Pedrera, a space once built for a rich family to live and rent out that was reviled in its time for its strange organic shapes mimicking a rock quarry, but is now loved for those same features. Absolutely awe inspiring!

Me enjoying an amazing basil gin tonic from Xixbar, a local haunt dedicated solely to the art of gin tonic.

And there was tapas. Lots of tapas. And gin tonics. Thankfully, my sister and her husband knew all the great local spots to go, so we feasted at the cheap places the real Barcelonians went to. Perhaps one of our best meals (although, really it is hard to say with such great options), was our impromptu picnic at Sitges, a wonderful beach near Barcelona where we swam (briefly--it was cold!). We got olives, jamon, Spanish cheese, fresh bread, and caper berries from a local market. Heaven! Sometimes the best meals are the simplest ones.

Papas Bravas, a local dish of fried potatoes in aioli-like sauce.

A selection of tapas from jamon to prawns, octopus, and two cheese selections and veggies, and finally a potato-meat ball.  Delish! — A selection of tapas from jamon to prawns, octopus, and two cheese selections and veggies, and finally a potato-meat ball. Delish!

We strolled all the different neighborhoods and stopped off at a book fair on our last day. We saw some incredible art by a famous Catalan artist name Antoni Tàpies, and we strolled through more neighborhoods like the Gothic Quarter and Gracia. We shopped a little neighborhood markets and enjoyed the locals. I feel the words I use to describe this experience don't do it justice! I can't possibly tell you every adventure we had nor fully describe the warmth and openness of this great city. All I can say is it is worth a visit--and I would love to go back there again!

On London Cab Drivers

June 1, 2014

They were the first people to introduce you to London properly. Their shiny black cabs roamed the streets like traveling encyclopedias holding all of London past and present in the back of their seats.

Theirs was not the London of fastidious politeness and reserve as cool as the weather. Nor was it the Anglophile paradise of queens and outdated customs--the London that had been so off-putting, so full of its own importance as it was, the one that brought out the Chicana militant in you. (Their history is great yes, but so is yours. You will not bow down to them, not their conquests, not their customs.)

But the cabs, now there was the real London. The place where the drivers talked streets and politics and watching the telly over a few beers after work. In the back of their cabs, you learned about the best places to eat--Indian food, traditional English fare, French steak frites--as well as the best sights to see. You learned about the day to day life of the average Londoner--work, pub, home--and the affability you wouldn't necessarily find in a New York taxi.

You learned of their love of Stonehenge documentaries, their mental tug-of-war of selling or not selling their Spanish villa, their thoughts on race and class consciousness, and their master's thesis on sacred spaces--non-religious mass graves of 19th bishop's prostitutes where people still go to mourn the lost. You heard about their grandchildren and their trips to America. They drew you a map with their words of neighborhoods and beliefs and everyday life.

These are the stories you don't read about in guidebooks, the London that is made of grit and good cheap beer and honest work, the one that doesn't really care about the Queen or the national religion, only a good conversation and a job done well.

As you found your way through London from one taxi to the next, you relish the feeling of cracking the thin surface of antiquated Anglophilia as you would the shell of a soft-boiled egg so you could scoop out the fleshy center, savor the heart of this city.